We left the oasis along Laguna San Ignacio to check out the town. As soon as we saw the town square I was personally taken back to my YWAM trip in the ’80s. This is the Mexico I remember. The town square this Saturday morning is quiet. I remember all the families picnicking Sunday afternoons, playing games, having a wonderful time.
Across from town square we investigate Iglesia San Ignacio
the children discovering an unknown mammal hiding in a square hole in the outside of the church.
They climb exterior stairs (that lead to the interior balcony) and discover a tiny kitten missing one eye.
We find hidden gardens and perfect places for tea parties. Places were fairies might be found.
People still slip in to pray, meditate or worship in this quiet church
whose walls are 1.2m thick of lava-blocks. It was located here by Jesuits, but Dominicans supervised the construction of this striking church that was finished in 1786.
We arrive back on the Sea of Cortez at Santa Rosalia in time to seek out lunch & deal with police directing heavy traffic around this one-way street town centro. We find parking right in front of Eiffel’s Church where the police man says he won’t ticket us if we are tourists. We trust the one-armed officer.
Yes, the Eiffel, A.G. Eiffel of the Eiffel tower fame, designed & erected this church for Paris’ 1889 World’s Fair. It was then disassembled & stored in Brussels for shipping to West Africa but instead it was shipped here to Santa Rosalia when a director of the Boleo Company signed for it.
The church is considered beautiful more for the prefabrication of the times rather than its architectural style.
Santa Rosalia is an old mining town founded in the 1880’s by a French company to extract copper ore. Mining lasted until the 1950’s, now the town is a fishing and ferry port (ferry to mainland). El centro looks like a close knit neighbourhood of houses until you find yourself in the middle of it all.
We walk through the town, discovering that Saturdays are not good days to require banking services. We noticed that Fridays aren’t either. Line-ups are outside the bank doors and down the side walks, as if there’s a premier showing of the newest movie.
We stop to buy fresh baguettes at the well-known French-style bakery Panaderia El Boleo, and get sandwich makings and watermelon at a mercado and head back out of town (no parking ticket), surprised to find this nice looking library
We found a beach at San Bruno where we could leisurely consume lunch with turkey vultures as company! Maret started a Watermelon Stand……
We drive the windy (but good) highway through coastal mountains until we reach Mulege, a town we’ve heard good things about. We enter town through the big stucco arch
and manuever the one-way streets taking in the view of market stores, open restaurants, a colourful elementary school with playground.
Heading south we come to the Baia Concepcion, gorgeous with islands, multiple stretches of sandy beaches, clusters of houses or RV’s with palapas.
We find our friend’s house at Posada Concepcion and can totally understand why they bought at this location in 1996.
Right on a sheltered bay with shallow waters safe for kids. Paradise. Besides the scorpions, sting rays and such that come with living in a place like this.
We start to ask around about a rental house, something to use as a home-base for a month or more. What would rent for $500/month for a couple they are asking $800 for our family. I don’t think so!!!!
We venture the short but difficult climb to Playa Escondida (‘hidden beach’) which is a small isolated beach. Picture perfect with only 2 other campers at present. We call this home.
VIEW FROM OUR KITCHEN
lunch at San Bruno